THE AGRICULTURE FAIR: THE YOUNG LEAD THE REVOLUTION | M6 | Zone Interdite

This year, the Agriculture Fair is playing for high stakes. Not only because this the 150^th anniversary of the General Agricultural competition with its famous gold, silver and bronze medals, but also because the farming world is in total revolution. The biggest farm in the world, as it has come to be called, with its 4,000 cows, calves, chicken and pigs, its 650,000 visitors, its thousands of farmers exhibiting their know-how and outstanding products, is always a highly anticipated event for city dwellers. However, the “eat better” movement, ecology, product traceability and animal welfare are at the very heart of French consumers’ current concerns. And the younger generation of farmers is heeding that message. Whether the sons or daughters of farmers, or converted city dwellers, they are determined to wage the battle against prejudice and take agriculture into a new era.

Like Antoine, who unlike his brother and sister, who definitely did not want to take on the family farm, decided to incur heavy debts as high as €350,000 in order to buy half his father’s farm. Up till now, his father needed to practise some measure of intensive farming to get by financially. Antoine wants to put everything into direct sales and short distribution chains from producer to consumer to change the economic model. To boost his business, the young farmer needs to get known and so a medal at the General Agriculture Competition would be a great springboard for him. One of his cows, a Maine-Anjou, has been selected. However, the competition is fierce… To win, he will have to surpass himself, primp his cow and impress the jury.

The Chevreau family makes cheese… goat cheese. Rachel used to be an accountant and her husband was a melon farm worker. Two years ago they bought a farm in the Deux-Sèvres to change their lives. And, beginner’s luck! Their first time at the Fair, their first medal. A bronze, third place… But they saw the effect on sales immediately: up 30%. This year, they’re aiming for gold with their goat tomme, a cheese highly appreciated by the consumer. Competing in the Fair costs them more than €1,000 with entry fees and travel. But this year, the whole family is “going up” to Paris for the occasion and little Arnaud, their youngest, has never been on the train…

But there’s somebody else who’s spent 30 times as much – €30,000 – to exhibit in Paris. It’s Charles, 40, from La Reunion, and he’s coming with more than 1,000 pots of jam in his bags to sell. His “Confitures de la Fournaise” jams specialize in original and exotic tastes: passion fruit-lychee, mango-passion fruit and an unlikely combava lime jam. But he almost didn’t come. Last March a fire devastated his laboratory and he lost everything. He’s taken a 28^m2 stand, which really needs to succeed, and his jams are also in competition for the gold medal… a sure way to put the damage from the fire behind him.

Céline, 41, has nothing to win. Or rather, she has everything to lose. If she fails, it means disaster for the whole Fair! She is responsible for the supply of hay throughout the whole period of the Fair. She and her team work like mad to feed the animals and provide litter for their stalls. For 10 days, Céline and her four employees are on site day and night and there’s no shortage of work. This Fair is not just a professional adventure for Céline: her retired father, her brother and her cousin are coming to lend her a hand. And she needs it. We’re with her during the most intense moment of the Fair: the famous Turn Over. Céline and her team have no margin for error. If they fail, the Fair won’t be able to open to visitors.

To satisfy her passion, Anaïs, 33, never has a second’s rest. What with her job as a sales representative in Rennes, where she lives with her husband, Romain, and her grandfather’s farm-stable in the Nièvre, she’s somewhat put on hold her childhood desire to devote herself to her “dear” Percheron horses. René, her 80-year-old grandfather, was the second biggest dealer in France. Anaïs, who dreams of one day making a living from Percherons, is playing an important part at the Fair with “Puff”. They are competing in the beautiful horse category. Anaïs has to “break in” Puff, which means showing her for the first time and successfully train her just two weeks before the Fair. Will Anaïs and her young unbroken mare be up to the challenge?

And Jeremy, 19, has recently obtained his ticket to compete in the “sheepympics”, a sort of decathlon for best shepherd. He’s come straight from the Lozère where he is studying at the Marjevols agricultural school. The son of a farmer, he managed to beat his two cousins, Romain and Lucas, in the selection trials. The three of them are inseparable. They’re the same age and following the same educational course. But they have a sharp sense of competition. But they bear no grudge and will be there in Paris to support him through the various events: releasing the sheep, the fastest shearing or the obstacle course. Competing in the “sheepympics” means carrying on the tradition. But not only that: for Jeremy it’s the hope he’ll get noticed and find a job before, one day, taking over the family farm.

Throughout the duration of the Fair, amidst the judges who are tasting and bestowing joy or disappointment, the vets who treat the animals and attend the many births that occur over the 10 days, the farmers who eat and sleep on the spot and the auction sales where butchers and restaurants fight over the finest beasts, we show you the backstage workings of this giant dream factory.